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Mineral Makeup Ingredients


What are they and what do they do?

We've taken some of the most-used ingredients in mineral makeup and compiled them into this table.  By reading this, we hope you'll be more familiar with each substance, know what it does, and know what to look for in a mineral makeup that's right for your skin.

 Allantoin

Allantoin is an extract of the comfrey plant, known for its gentleness and ability to help heal minor wounds and cuts. Allantoin is also said to help in the regeneration of new skin cells. It is postulated that Allantoin cleanses away necrotic tissue, speeding up the growth of new, healthy tissue.

 Bismuth Oxychloride

Bismuth Oxychloride comes in many different luminosity grades, from matte to highly shiny diamond sheen. It does not settle into fine lines or wrinkles, but can cause an undesirable shine on some people. It also offers superior coverage and a smooth texture and appearance. Bismuth Oxychloride has been known to cause skin irritation and breakouts in some, particularly when sweating. For this reason, our Lueur Jeune line does not contain any bismuth.

 Boron Nitride

Boron Nitride is a non-toxic, inorganic powder composed of boron and nitrogen. It is one of the most lubricious (having a slippery or smooth quality) ingredients, and offers superior slip and adhesion, and has good oil-control properties without drying. The feel and silkiness this ingredient gives are of the highest standard. Boron Nitride comes in different sheens, from semi-matte coverage to translucent veil to a glow, which offers the same dewy appearance as bismuth, but without the irritation.

 Cornstarch

Cornstarch is a vegetable starch. It is a safe alternative to talc and is highly absorbent. There are many downsides to using cornstarch as a basis in mineral makeup. It does not offer good adhesion and does not protect you from UV rays. 

 Kaolin Clay

Kaolin Clay, or China Clay, is a very fine, soft, white, highly absorbent powder. It offers great adhesion and gives a creamy texture to foundations. The high absorption properties of Kaolin Clay make this a superb ingredient in oil-control formulations.

 Magnesium Stearate

Magnesium is a naturally occurring metal and stearic acid is derived from vegetable oil. It provides average coverage, good consistency, texture, opacity, and high adhesion.

 Crushed Pearl Powder Pearl powder contains over a dozen minerals and around 18 amino acids, including 10 essential amino acids necessary for healing and maintaining cell nutrition. Pearl powder has been shown to have anti-inflammatory and calming properties, improves circulation, cell regeneration and elasticity, protects against free radicals, minimizes pores and fine lines, and smoothes/refines the texture of skin, leaving it appearing smoother and brighter.  We use Pearl powder in many of our formulations.

 Rice Powder

Rice powder is a lightweight, translucent powder that offers good oil absorption and skin softening properties. It provides good slip, and leaves a porcelain, shine-free finish on skin. Rice Powder is a much better alternative to talc than cornstarch. Since it is not vegetable-derived, rice powder can have an indefinite shelf-life when kept in an airtight container.

 Sericite Mica

Sericite Mica is a bit of a chameleon, with multiple purposes. It is a type of colorless mica often used to create a more translucent finish in mineral makeup, and is a basis for many foundations. Sericite has a low luster and reflects light to reduce the appearance of fine lines and large pores without clogging them. Plain Sericite can impart shine/shimmer, which can be undesirable in a foundation. There are many treated Sericite micas that reduce this luster while offering additional properties. Read on.

Carnauba Wax Treated Sericite Mica

Carnauba Wax treated Sericite has water resistant properties and has no luster. It feels creamy and glides well onto skin, and creates a long-wearing foundation that keeps your color consistent throughout the day.  Carnauba wax is vegan and natural.  This sericite is used in our House Blend, Oil-Control and UltraCover formulas.

Jojoba Treated Sericite Mica


Jojoba treated Sericite also has water resistant properties and has no luster. The feel of this sericite is even more creamy than Carnauba Wax treated sericite, and also creates a long-wearing foundation that keeps your color consistent throughout the day. This particular sericite is superior for locking in moisture.   Jojoba oil is actually a natural wax ester, and is vegan and natural.  This sericite is now used in our Dry Skin Formula.

Magnesium Myristate Treated Sericite Mica

Magnesium Myristate treated Sericite is also water-resistant and very emollient - wonderful for dry skin needing moisture-retention. It is also a very lubricious powder, meaning it adds smoothness, silkiness and slip, and offers good adhesion. This treated Sericite also imparts almost no luster.  This sericite is sometimes used in our eye shadows.

Perfluoroalcohol Phosphate Treated Sericite Mica

Perfluoroalcohol Phosphate treated Sericite shows both water and oil repellency. With this treated Sericite in formulations, it is possible to achieve long lasting make-up resilient to perspiration and sebum, promoting a more natural appearance.  Saphoros does not use this particular treated sericite.

Mica with Methicon

Mica with Methicon is a plain mica treated with methicon, a type of silicone. This treated mica is also water-resistant, and aids with adhesion of powders and reduces the appearance of fine lines. Methicon-treated mica tends to impart shine.

 Silica Microspheres

Seen as "silica" on your ingredients list. Because of their size and shape, silica microspheres are able to scatter light to diminish the look of fine lines on the skin, effect also known as “optical blurring” or “soft focus”. It also provides an elegant silky texture, enhanced slip and better blendability for a more natural finish. Silica is also absorbent and often used in greater concentrations for oil control. It has successfully been used in hypoallergenic and allergy tested formulations.

 Silicone Microspheres

Seen as "Polymethylsilsesquioxane" on the ingredients list. That sounds like a big, scary word, but it really isn't. Silicone microspheres behave similarly to Silica. These microspheres are a white silicone-resin with smaller particle size than silica. They provide superb lubricity, smooth/silky feel and prevent clumping. Silicone microspheres are said to diminish the appearance of fine lines by reflecting light.

 Silk

100% silk is a natural powder created from the cocoon of the silk worm. Silk powder is rich in amino acids and is valued in cosmetics for its ability to retain and release moisture depending on the surrounding conditions. You don't see this in many mineral products, but you will in ours. Silk is a natural moisturizer, entraps oil, and offers relief for sunburn, windburn, and other burns. It is considered to be an ancient aid to dry skin. It also provides for a silky feel of the makeup on your skin. Saphoros uses 100% ultrafine Silk.

 Talc

Talc is a mineral (Magnesium Silicate Hydroxide) found in a wide variety of products. The cosmetic "velvet" talcs impart exceptional silkiness, improved translucency and excellent coverage.  Even though the refining process has improved to the extent of removing the asbestos-like fibers found in talc, cosmetic grade talc has been shown to cause tumors in animals with inhalation. We do not use talc in our loose minerals for this reason.  We do feel, however, talc is perfectly safe in pressed formulations because the chance of inhalation is greatly reduced.

 Titanium Dioxide

This ingredient is a major staple in most mineral makeup. Titanium Dioxide is a very refractive substance, with light reflection at a level only surpassed by diamonds. Offers broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection.

 Zinc Oxide

Another major ingredient, which also offers broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection. Zinc Oxide is very calming to the skin, and is a very desirable ingredient for those with sensitive, acne-prone, or rosacea-prone skin.

 

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